Korea

Iraq’s National Security Advisor, Mouwaffak al-Rubaie, says that any security deal with the U.S. must contain a specific timetable for troop withdrawal.

Fine.

I don’t have a problem with leaving Iraq after the job is done. But to post a departure schedule is beyond ridiculous. The Iraqi’s position calls for all U.S. led forces to leave once Iraqi forces have resumed security responsibility for all 18 of the country’s provinces. So far, Iraq has assumed primary responsibility for security in 9 of the 18 provinces.

So, essentially Iraq is asking us to say,

“Hey, al-Qaida! We’ll be out of Iraq just as soon as we turn over this last province. Just lay low for a while and things will soon be back to normal. In fact, if you’re quiet, we’ll probably finish the job faster!”

You know, Japan has the second largest GDP, China is #4 and South Korea is #12. A large portion of the world’s economic exchange takes place within this relatively small portion of the world. And in the middle of it all is North Korea, a failed economy. North Korea, whose stated objective is the reunification of the Korean peninsula. Imagine what this would do to the region and the world’s economy. What’s preventing North Korea from moving on its southern neighbor? The U.S. Army and the U.S. Air Force, who have maintained stability in the region for almost 60 years.

Perhaps that’s just what the Iraqi and other Middle Eastern governments are afraid of.

The New York Philharmonic, conducted by maestro Lorin Maazel, performed a historic concert in the North Korean capital city of Pyongyang. They earned a five-minute standing ovation from the audience with their third and final encore, the playing of the Korean folksong, “Arirang” (a song of love and loss).

Of the diplomatic impact of the concert, Maazel feels, “The groundwork has been laid” and “there may be a mission accomplished here.” He says he interpreted the audience as saying, “We understand the gesture of coming here. It could not have been easy for you. We appreciate that you did.”

(I’m not so sure about that)

Asked why President Kim Jong Il didn’t attend the concert, North Korea’s Minister of Culture, Kang Nung Su, stated, “Our general is very busy leading the revolution of Korea” and “There is no significance at all” to his absence.

Leading the revolution? On the street of Pyongyang, a billboard stands as a stark reminder of exactly whom the North Korean government is revolting against. Denouncing the United States the billboard reads: “Those who tackle (hurt) our pride, Wherever you are, We will put an end to it.”

It should come as no big surprise that nK will miss the nuclear disclosure deadline it agreed to in February. As I predeicted, here, here, here and here , Pyongyang has identified U.S offenses necessitating the delay. Specifically, nK is decrying the U.S. military activity in South Korea (otherwise known as routine training) as “flexing…military muscle.” Per the Yonhap news agency:

“Dialogue and clamor for war cannot stand together” … “The U.S. should abandon its hostile policy toward the North.”

It appears the reason for the delay in the declaration is a difference of opinion over the the country’s uranium enrichment program and the amount of plutonium produced. The U.S. feels its greater than nK is admitting to.

The real crux for the delay, suggest South Korean analysts, is nK’s perception that the U.S. is dragging its feet in removing the country from a list of terror-sponsoring states. This is likely to result in a lull in the denuclearization program for a few months.

The truth is that nK is will move forward only when promised more concessions and aid.

(as always)

Israel has acknowledged that it carried out an air strike against a “military target” deep inside the Syrian border, but has not provided any specifics. Syria has acknowledged the air strike, stating the target was “under construction.”

Now, the Syrians are rapidly dismantling a building at the supposed site of the bombing. According to the Institute for Science and International Security, a suspected reactor building visible in aerial photos prior to the Israeli attack had disappeared and the ground underneath had been sanitized. Reporting on the incident, the International Atomic Energy Agency surmised that

“Dismantling and removing the building at such a rapid pace dramatically complicates any (IAEA) inspection of the facilities and suggests Syria may be trying to hide what was there,”

Yah think?

I find it very interesting that the supposed Syrian nuclear facility looked an awful lot like the nuclear facilities in North Korea. But this can’t be, can it? After all, this would mean nK was sharing nuclear technology with a state sponsor of terrorism. This of course, would implicate nK as a terrorism enabler.

Of course, if nK was doing this, we wouldn’t be removing them from the state sponsor list. So, it must just be a coincidence. Right?

If it looks like a duck, and quacks like a duck…

During the recent round of six party talks between nK, China, Russia, ROK, Japan and the U.S., Pyongyang agreed to quickly dismantle key portions of its nuclear program and publicly account for all past nuclear activities, including bombs like the one it tested underground a year ago.

Personally, this sounds like the same old song-and-dance we’ve listened to for years. I understand the pressure to secure a deal with Pyongyang. After all, the possibility that Kim Jong Il will sell nuclear know-how to countries like Iran and Syria is a legitimate concern, and the sooner he’s out of the nuclear power business the better. And of course, the Bush administration desperately needs a diplomatic victory in nK to save face. But in our desperation, we’re dropping our guard.

This agreement sets a timetable for Pyongyang to come clean on all its nuclear programs and disable all nuclear facilities in exchange for 950,000 metric tons of fuel oil or its equivalent in economic aid. Sound familiar?

Oh, by the way, the agreement also requires the U.S. to “begin the process of removing” nK from the terrorism-sponsor list “in parallel” with the actions taken by Pyongyang. In July, Assistant Secretary of State, Christopher Hill, set the stage for this when he said the U.S. was willing to start the process after we “see how far the North Koreans are prepared to move on denuclearization.”

Evidently, no movement at all was sufficient.

Today marked the release of all the South Korean missionaries held hostage by the Taliban terrorists (h/t: Michelle Malkin). Why did the terrorists hold the seven remaining hostages for an additional day? I believe they wanted to see what kind of response the hostage release received from the media. If it didn’t go their way or if thought they could gain some new advantage, they’d still have some leverage. Just more game-playing.

Now it appears the Church that sent the missionaries to Afghanistan will be charged by the South Korean government for the expense of transporting them home.

According to the South Korean Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade,

The government will first request compensation for the cost of airfare, the transfer of dead bodies, and expenses for the transportation and medical treatment of the captives.”

The chief pastor of the Bundang-based church said the church will reimburse the government for all costs associated with transporting the dead bodies and freed hostages home. The pastor made the commitment after the government said it would seek compensation from the church since all expenses were paid by taxpayer money.

First taken hostage by Taliban, then robbed by their own government. South Korea has the twelfth largest economy in the world! How cheap can you be?!?

MORE: Tel-Chai Nation

UPDATE: South Korean officials hint at recouping expenses from the hostages themselves (h/t: Hot Air).

Twelve of the nineteen South Korean hostages held by the Taliban have been released. The hostages were released into the care of the International Committee of the Red Cross in small groups at three different locations in central Afghanistan. The Taliban said they would release the seven remaining hostages within the next few days.

At first, South Korea had vowed not to engage in direct talks with Taliban terrorists who had threatened to kill the missionary hostages. However, following the murder of two of the hostages as a result of failed negotiations between the terrorists and the Afghan government late last month, the South Korean government began direct negotiations with the kidnappers.

Of course, this is good news for the missionaries and their families and I’m happy they’re safe. Still, although the hostages-for-prisoners deal fell through, the Taliban can still claim victory.

They certainly didn’t lose, did they?

The South Koreans have reached an agreement with the Taliban kidnappers to free the 19 remaining Christian missionary hostages (h/t: Michelle Malkin).

The deal: In exchange for the hostages, South Korea will withdraw its troops stationed in Afghanistan by year’s end and impose a ban on its Christian nationals’ missionary activities in Afghanistan.

The message: Kidnapping and murdering foreigners works!

MORE: Hot Air; The Jawa Report; Little Green Footballs

The Taliban has freed two South Korean women it previously held hostage. Taliban spokesman, Qari Mohammad Yousuf, described the release as “a gesture of good faith to the Korean government and United Nations…” now they “want the U.N. and Korean authorities to consider Taliban prisoners, and [they] want to hear a good decision from them.”

(What?!?)

By releasing 2 of the remaining 21 hostages, the Taliban is acting in good faith? And their generosity ought to be reciprocated by the release of criminals?

(Maybe in the bizarro Taliban land!)

I hope that this veil of good will is interpreted for what it is — a desperate attempt by the Taliban to garner sympathy for their cause and attain victory by their despicable act.

Don’t give in! The price is too high!

More: Michelle Malkin; Tel-Chai Nation

Another South Korean hostage has been murdered by the Taliban! Shim Sung-min was one of the church group providing aid to the people of Afghanistan. Just a few days ago, the terrorists murdered Pastor Bae Hyung Kyu.

The families of the innocents have endured the 13-day stand-off between the Taliban and the Afghanistan government and are now appealing “for support from the people of the United States and around the world for resolving this crisis as early as possible.” They’re asking the U.S., especially, to “disregard political interests and give more active support to save the 21 innocent lives”

I feel for the hostages and their families, but I don’t consider it our responsibility, or the responsibility of the Afghan government to resolve this conflict by meeting any of the terrorist’s demands.

After all, earlier this year (March) the Taliban kidnapped an Italian newspaper reporter and demanded the release of prisoners in exchange. The Afghan government agreed to their demand and released five Taliban prisoners. The U.S. and some in Europe criticized the Afghan government’s decision arguing it would embolden the Taliban and provide an incentive to stage more kidnappings.

(Evidently, it did)

Folks know the risks of working or traveling in the Middle East, and should not expect the government, any government, to give in to terrorists’ demands after perpetuating such heinous acts. Neither the Afghan government, nor the U.S., is responsible for the murders of Bae Hyung Kyu and Shim Sung-min! Their blood is on the hands and souls of the Taliban terrorists!

We must not forget that. Ever!

More: Michelle Malkin

Jul 31, 2007-3:30pm: Karzai’s spokesman said “…freeing militant prisoners was not an option.”

Jul 31, 2007-4:00pm: Taliban says they “might stop killing hostages…”

Aug 1, 2007-5:33am: Another Taliban deadline passes quietly; Afghan army warns locals of impending military action

nK has “turned-off” its nuclear reactor, but before it will shut down permanently, insists the U.S. lift economic sanctions and remove them from the list of terror sponsors. What’d I tell ya?

Of course, it’s working. Assistant Secretary of State Christopher Hill, said the United States is willing to start the process of removing the reclusive communist regime from a list of state sponsors of terrorism, but “We’ll see when we can complete that, because we’ll see how far the North Koreans are prepared to move on denuclearization.” Of course the “terrorist” label doesn’t sit well with peace-loving Pyongyang, since the regime hasn’t been directly tied to any terrorist action since it planted a bomb on a South Korean plane in 1987.

Okay, but doesn’t nK have a long history of selling ballistic missiles to rogue states like Iran? (Read this and this.) Doesn’t that still make them a state sponsor of terrorism? What happened to “if you’re not with us, you’re against us”?

So, before making any changes, we expect nK to permanently deactivate their nuclear reactor, right? Don’t count on it! This gives Pyongyang the stalemate they’re looking for. I predict their reactor will be up and running again before year’s end.

photo: http://www.teamamerica.com/downloads/wp_7_medium.html

Pyongyang says it will shut down the Yongbyon nuclear reactor with the arrival of the first shipment of oil needed to operate its heat and electric power plants. The fuel was a condition for Pyongyang to implement the first stage of its denuclearization program. South Korea said it will begin delivering fuel oil to nK on July 14; the first shipment will be 5,000 to 10,000 metric tons. Seoul plans to deliver 50,000 metric tons of oil within 20 days. The U.S., Russia and China will follow with another 950,000 metric tons.

If Pyongyang comes through on its end of the deal, six-party talks on nK’s nuclear program could reopen when the oil starts flowing. A delegation of inspectors from the International Atomic Energy Agency is expected to arrive in nK July 12-14 to monitor the closure of its nuclear facilities.

Japan was opposed to South Korea delivering the oil before Pyongyang shut down the reactor.

Japan has the right idea! This is typical Kim Jong-il: “I’ll do this, if you give me that.” When we comply, the previous statement becomes, “You did this, but I’m not going to do that now because…[insert some bogus insult].” Of course there will be international outrage and Pyongyang will remain aloof. Russia and China will have strong words, but won’t support actions against the rogue nK. There will be more compromise after nK “test fires” a couple of missiles and we’ll be right back to square one. This is Kim Jong Il’s modus operandi and it continues to be an effective strategy.

So, the U.N. is in nK today to inspect their Yongbyon nuclear reactor. This is the first monitoring mission allowed by Pyongyang in five years (and the U.N. was actually invited to come inspect).

Naturally, nK thought today they also needed to test a short-range ballistic missile.

Of course, the U.S. condemned the action…

National Security Council spokesman Gordon Johndroe said, “We expect North Korea to refrain from conducting further provocative ballistic missile launches…”

Well, duh!

::: UPDATE :::

6/29/07-9:55am: The head of a UN nuclear watchdog team has said he is “satisfied” after viewing nK’s nuclear reactor complex. Pyongyang has promised to scrap the reactor under an aid-for-disarmament deal. (and if you believe that, perhaps you’d be interested in purchasing the Brooklyn Bridge…)

North Korea is firing missiles…again. According to South Korea’s Defense Ministry, on Thursday North Korea launched short-range missiles off its western coast. At this time they’re still unsure how many missiles were fired.

This is likely a response to the South Korean delay of a promised shipment of 400,000 tons of rice aid to North Korea. The aid was delayed until Pyongyang acts on its promise to close its main nuclear reactor.

Of course, North Korea is refusing to shut down its reactor, a deal made at February’s nuclear talks, until it receives the funds the U.S. had frozen at the Macau bank on allegations of counterfeiting and money laundering. Although the funds have since been made available, Pyongyang is playing games, insisting on electronic fund transfers to demonstrate the “cleanliness” of the cash.

Not that it matters much. Pyongyang will never give up its nuclear program; it’s Kim Jong-il’s only bargaining chip. He wants to be a regional power player and without the nukes, he’s nobody.

I read an interview in Opera News magazine about Korean soprano Hei-Kyung Hong. She came to America as a teenager and studied at Juillard. The article was very interesting as she contrasted the isolation of pre-Korean War Asia with the prominence of Asia today with respect to the Western culture. Anyway, a couple of quotes from the interview really stood out to me. They reminded me of the people I knew and worked with in Korea. First, a statement on Korean artists, “To succeed in music, it is important to have qualities that burn, an aggressive and competitive fire.” Koreans have this character. I see it in their appreciation of beauty…not just of music, but of art in general and even nature. I’m reminded of the a reed field I visited outside of Gunsan. There was a path that meandered through this huge reed field and every once in a while there was a post of carved wood with a poem or thought in Korean etched upon it.

Next, of her career, she says, “Twenty years from now, people will say, “Who is Hei-Kyung Hong?” People are quick to forget. But I will have my family. This is what really matters. Your legacy is your children and their children.” I admire her humility and her perspective. So many artists, especially in the snobbish world of opera, brag of their accomplishments and do a lot of name-dropping. Hong is just the opposite. How refreshing.

On November 21, Cindy Sheehan was in Seoul taking part in a street protest against the new U.S. military headquarters. Now street protests in South Korea are almost a national pastime. The protests are regularly scheduled and will typically be cancelled if the weather is bad.

Typical Korean protester: “This is an outrage! …and I’d take a stand against it, if it wasn’t raining.”

Anyway, on this bright sunny Tuesday, flanked by about 100 comrades Ms Sheehan called on the U.S. military to end its “base expansion” in South Korea. The “expansion” Ms Sheehan was referring to was the Pentagon’s movement of troops from Yongsan, in the center of Seoul, to Pyeongtaek, about 45 miles south of the capital. This move will displace hundreds of families in the approximate 130 million square feet alloted for the new base.

As usual, Ms Sheehan doesn’t know what she’s talking about. The U.S. is actually reducing its base presence in South Korea. There was once as many as 104 bases here, and now there’re about 65 (with more reductions on the way). It wasn’t Washington’s idea to move out of Yongsan, either–it was {{gasp}} Seoul’s! In 1991, at the behest of the South Korean government, the U.S. military agreed to move out of Yongsan. South Korea agreed to relocate the military to the quieter Seoul suburb.

Yongsan Garrison has long been a controversial site. It was the Japanese Army’s headquarters during its occupation of the peninsula. When Korea was liberated in 1945, the U.S. military located there for convenience sake. But with the growth of the South Korean economy (in large part due to the U.S. military presence), the area around the base has become extremely valuable real estate. Recently, the South Korean government sold off a one- to two-acre parcel of land adjacent to Yongsan for $40 million!

Ms Sheehan has promised to take the “fair-weather” protesters’ grievances to the Pentagon and Capitol Hill. Before she does, perhaps she and the protesters should address the issue closer to home…namely the South Korean President Roh Moo Hyun! Since being elected in 2002, he has adopted an anti-U.S., pro-dictator appeasement line. And what has this stance gotten South Korea? A nuclear North Korea!!

Ms Sheehan and the ignorant South Korean protesters seem to forget that its been the U.S. military in South Korea who’ve provided security (and regional stability) for the past 50 years. The U.S. military is the only thing stopping North Korea’s Kim Jong Il from reunifying the peninsula on his terms.

In the wake of Apple’s largest product recall in history, Korean Airlines is banning the use of Apple PowerBook and iBook laptops using certain Sony-made batteries. According to an airline spokesperson,

“Due to the risk of onboard fire, we are not allowing passengers to use certain brands of laptops on the plane. Safety always comes first for us.”

The airline isn’t sure when the ban will be lifted.

Passengers may carry their laptop on the plane, but the battery has to be placed in checked baggage. Talk about an overreaction! Of course, Korean Air allows passengers to use their laptop if plugged into the power source in the seat. This effectively eliminates the option for all the economy class passengers because only the first and business class have an in-seat power source.

Apple has recalled 1.8 million batteries and my replacement will soon be here, but due to the ignorance of some airline officials I will be forced to check my battery? I think not. The choice is mine. I denounce Korean Air and will take my business elsewhere!

The concert this evening was outstanding! The pieces were familiar–a good idea since, I assume, the majority of attendees were not well versed in classical music. I’m thinking this because of the folks who applauded at inappropriate times.

Anyway, the concert took place in the base’s fitness center. The acoustics weren’t too bad. They played two encores.

Here’s what they played:

• Leichte Kavallerie (The Light Cavalry Overture) by Franz von Suppé
• Carmen Suite No. 1 by Georges Bizet
  • Prelude
  • Aragonaise
  • Intermezzo
  • Les dragons d’Alcala
  • Les Toreadors
• Kaiser Walzer (Emperor’s Waltz) by Johann Strauss
• L’Arlesienne Suite No. 2 by Georges Bizet
  • Pastorale
  • Intermezzo
  • Menuet
  • Farandole
• Orpheus in the Underworld (Can-Can) by Jacques Offenbach
• ENCORE: Radetzky March by Johann Strauss
• ENCORE: Variations on a Korean Folk Song by John Barnes Chance

What a great evening!

Well, the HSI is over and the medical group was graded “EXCELLENT.” I actually guessed the final score within one point and the number of pages in the report within a page (as inspectors, we used to compete to see who could guess the unit’s score and the number of pages was the tie-breaker)–for this inspection, I was the closest on both counts, so I win!

Yesterday, Kennie (the first sergeant) and I took the bullet train to Seoul. The bullet train travels at 186 mph and the trip takes less than 2-hours. We left early and took an AAFES cab from the base to the Iksan train station (a 20-30 minute drive) and bought two round-trip first-class tickets on the train. It was a comfortable ride. In Seoul we hopped on the subway and headed to Samseong to visit the Coex Mall. I couldn’t believe how big this place was. In addition to all the stores, it had a luxury hotel and an aquarium!

The main reason we went was to visit the Apple (computer) store. In addition to the Apple store, we looked around a bookstore that makes Borders look like a Five-and-Dime! They had a “foreign book section” which contained all the books written in English. They had a very nice selection, too (about the size of a Waldenbooks you’d find in one of our malls in the States). After the bookstore we had a beer in “O’Kims Braühaus,” a microbrewery serving Irish-style beer. Delicious! After the beer we took the subway to Itaewon and ate dinner at the Outback Steakhouse.

We lingered too long in Itaewon, though, and almost missed our train back to Iksan. It wouldn’t have been so close, but the subway from Ichon to Youngson (the last connection) was delayed. Anyway, we made it with a couple of minutes to spare. Back at Iksan we caught a “Kimche” Cab (Korean cab) back to the base.

I’ll be making this trip again!

Today Cindy and I spent the day in downtown Seoul. First we took a cab to the shopping district of Itaewon. This is an area that many Americans visit because of its proximity to Youngsan Garrison. We walked up the street looking in the shops and fending-off the pushy vendors. When we came across the subway entrance, we thought we’d give it a go. After all, we’ve been all around England and Sydney, Australia on the subway, this shouldn’t be much different, right. Well, sort of.

Although much of the information was in English, not understanding the language was a big disadvantage. We wanted to visit the Hard Rock Cafe to buy shirts for the kids and have some lunch, so armed with the Hard Rock brochure and a sorry map from the hotel, we bought two subway tickets at â‚©190 each. We entered the gate and boarded the “Line 6″ train for Yaksu. At Yaksu, we boarded the “Line 3″ train for Apgujeong. Upon exiting the subway station, we tried to determine the right direction to go to find the Hard Rock. This wasn’t as easy a task as we thought it would be.

We looked for a familiar street or building name, something top correspond with our crappy map, so we could get our bearing. Nothing. We walked around the block and came across a Krispy Kreme doughnut shop (go figure!). We went in and ordered two cups of coffee and a jelly doughnut for Cindy. I asked one of the workers for directions to the Hard Rock and she didn’t know what i was talking about. I showed her the brochure and it didn’t help. She asked one of the other workers to help us and this time we found someone who could indeed help! She wrote the name of a hospital on a piece of paper and then some text in Korean. She told us to walk up one block and give the paper to a cab driver and he would take us there. We did.

The cabbie didn’t speak a word of English, but he read the note and invited us into the cab. He took us to the hospital which was right next door to the Hard Rock Cafe! The cab ride was â‚©3,000.

So, we were able to buy the t-shirts, but the restaurant didn’t open until 5:00 (it was about 2:30). We headed back to the subway station. On the way we stopped at a Mary Kay store we’d seen as we were riding in the Cab. Cindy is a beauty consultant and knows just about everything there is to know about Mary Kay. The store was very interesting and they seemed very excited to learn that Cindy was a Mary Kay girl, too! Cindy bought some product that they make and sell only in Korea and they showered her with gifts. It was quite an experience.

After Mary Kay, we got back on the subway and headed back to Itaewon where we dined at the Outback Steakhouse. It was very good and a pitcher of Hite beer made the meal pleasantly unique.

What a nice day!

Today I went to the E-Mart in Kunsan City. E-Mart was Korea’s first major locally-owned mass retailer (it’s a lot like Wal-Mart). Its owners, the Shinsegae Group, better known for their upscale department stores, opened their first E-Mart discount store in November 1993, in the Dobong-gu district of Seoul. They now operate about 85 stores nationwide and several in China. E-mart stores are typically located near residential areas of major cities and usually draw customers in from a 10km radius. It has stayed competitive, expanding partly by converting parent Shinsegae’s department stores into discount outlets offering higher margins. It’s basically a two story department store with a grocery store (three stories, if you count the parking garage on the top floor). They had everything there! It was actually a pretty nice place. I didn’t buy anything, just looked around. I spent a lot of time in the grocery store looking at all the different Korean stuff. They had an amazing amount of seafood and more kimchi than I’ve ever seen! I ate in E-Mart. I had some Korean noodle dish that was very good; I could’ve had McDonalds…they were there, too!

After E-Mart, I drove up the road to the “dollar store” (the “won store”…everything was â‚©1,000), it was just like a typical American dollar store, except they had a little beverage stand in there where you could get coffee and juice.

Both were interesting, but I’m not much of a shopper. I just enjoyed the experience and seeing how another culture operated these familiar businesses.

I registered my Jeep in Korea today. It was such a pleasant experience. I drove to city hall in Gunsan (a 20-minute drive) and found a parking space in a very cramped parking lot (Korean parking spaces are pretty small). The Korean equivalent of the DMV was on the first floor of the building. There was a counter for USFK (United States Forces Korea) vehicle registrations and no waiting. The attendants were dressed similarly and very professional (extremely polite, too). The young woman who was helping me spoke good English and was tolerant of my very weak Korean (I can say stuff like, “Hello” and “Thank you”). She completed the paperwork expeditiously and gave me directions across the street where I’d pick up my tags. The registration cost â‚©2,000.

I drove across the street to get my tags and the shop owner offered me a seat and a cup of coffee while they completed the paperwork. Once the paperwork was in order (took about 5 minutes), a man removed my temporary tags and mounted my permanent ones. I didn’t have to lift a finger. The tags cost â‚©15,000.

All-in-all, to register my Jeep in Korea cost me the equivalent of $17 and the service I experienced easily surpassed my service experiences with DMVs in America.

We could learn a lot from the polite, efficient Koreans!

I went to dinner this evening with a few of my colleagues. The restaurant in Kunsan City served only one thing: EEL! Naturally, I had my reservations, but to my surprise, it was good. I was expecting some slimy snake-like water creature still wearing it’s head, but it wasn’t like that at all.

In the picture below, the eel on the left is salted, the middle is teriyaki and the right is spicy. All the little bowls you see have different toppings for the eel and various kinds of kimche. The eel is on a grill and stays warm on your table. You take these cabbage-like leaves, spread on some pepper paste, add a piece of garlic (or whatever) and a piece of eel, roll it up and just pop it in your mouth.

While driving back from Seoul today I stopped by the Jung Ahn Service Area to adjust the passenger-side mirror and stretch my legs. These “Service Areas” are basically large rest stops with restaurants, bathrooms, gasoline and several vendors offering everything from snacks to leather coats. While there, I picked up a bag of walnut cakes from one of the vendors.

These are small cakes that look like walnut shells, with a walnut paste in the center. I like them because they’re not overly sweet. They’re very good when they’re hot, but not near as good after they cool. A bag of 20 or so is â‚©2,000 (roughly 2 bucks).